by ohanian » Mon 26 Nov 2007, 01:35:25
Taste buds of children destroyed by junk food
"Are you familiar with the term 'taste numbness'?" — food critic and activist Tsukasa Abe, writing in Sapio.
Restaurants good enough to be noticed by Michelin are among the world's finest. But Abe's focus is on children whose taste buds have been so corrupted by artificial food additives that natural flavors are simply lost on them. That's what he means by "taste numbness." He has watched it spread over the past decade, and believes it now afflicts some 30 percent of Japanese children.
Abe, 56, knows something about food additives. He used to sell them. In the 1980s, he was a top salesman for a food-additive trading firm. One day, during a rare meal at home, he was horrified to see his daughter eating his own company's additive-soaked meatballs. The experience changed his life. Quitting his job the next day, he began lecturing and writing against the evils he had been blindly perpetrating. A book he published last year has sold 600,000 copies.
His cross-country lecture tours have brought him into contact with daily eating habits "that leave me speechless," he writes in Sapio. Children drinking nothing but cola, drowning rice in mayonnaise, mixing pudding with soy sauce — "it makes you sick just to think of it," but the kids love it; it's what they've grown up on, and if you feed them less outlandish, more traditional fare, like homemade miso soup for example, they insist it's tasteless and won't eat it.
There's much to be said, Abe admits, for cheap, convenient instant meals. Parents are busy, and mothers have won the right not to spend their days in the kitchen bent over a hot stove.
"But look at the dark side," he urges. "Taste numbness" is only part of it.
One serving of instant Cup Ramen, he says, contains 5 grams of salt, only 1 gram under the maximum daily intake sanctioned by the World Health Organization. Some instant meals contain as many as 10 grams of salt — not to mention, he adds, suspected carcinogens.
Food additives — artificial coloring, artificial flavoring — "give new life to old vegetables," he says. It's a dubious resurrection; "these are 'garbage vegetables' just at the point of being inedible." Health and taste issues aside, this undermines Japanese agriculture and "the meticulous work of Japanese farmers."
The France-based Michelin Guide's pathbreaking coverage of Tokyo restaurants — Tokyo is the first city outside Europe and North America to be so honored — reminds us that Japan has a food culture of a very high order. Can it last? Can it survive "taste numbness?"
"It's not too late to recover our sense of taste," Abe writes — "if," he warns, "we start now. I am not saying we should get rid of all food additives. But surely we can serve home cooked meals more often, gradually reducing the quantity of additives we ingest."
At an apparently exceptional nursery school where lunches consist primarily of organic fare tastefully prepared, Abe recently tested the kids with instant soup. "Disgusting!" they cried.
Their taste buds had not lost their innocence.