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Flintlock advise? comere spec

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Flintlock advise? comere spec

Unread postby dmtu » Wed 27 Jul 2005, 19:35:56

I'll probably have to take this to a gun forum but here goes.

I've shot a little black powder, just enough to know how to load and fire but I've always played with cap n ball types. Now I have this Hawken repro and I can only get the damned thing to fire occasionally. I get good spark off of the frizzen and a flash in the pan but no matter how fastidious I am about cleaning the flash hole it just doesn't seem to want to light the main charge. In the end I get frustrated and make the priming charge go into the flash hole although as I understand it, this isn't the optimal method. Real black powder is a pain in the ass to get but I have to wonder if it is more reliable than the Pyrodex.
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Unread postby Specop_007 » Wed 27 Jul 2005, 21:42:09

I dont know much about black powder, and even less about the old school black powder!!
Is the flash hole removable, like the nipples are on cap types? If it were I'd think about changing it out with another.
Otherwise, I wouldnt think Pyrodex is any better or worse then regular blackpowder. Cant say for sure, I've only used Pyrodex in cap types muzzleloaders with excellence success.
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Unread postby dmtu » Wed 27 Jul 2005, 22:08:27

The flash orifice screws out but I don't think it is the issue. I think I'm the issue, wouldn't dream of going hunting with that thing, at least not yet. Maybe I'll stop by one of the few places that still has a black powder license and try the real FFFFg stuff.
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Unread postby Specop_007 » Wed 27 Jul 2005, 22:27:46

Are you using new powder (primary charge)?
It could possibly just be a bad batch of powder too.
I'd try different powder, then change the nipple (Is it worn, maybe its at an odd angle etc etc).

After that........I'd sell the thing and get one that takes caps! :oops:
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Unread postby dmtu » Wed 27 Jul 2005, 22:43:17

LOL, I already emailed Austin & Halleck about a cap lock. The guy said I'd have to get the barrel too so the total cost is 225 + shipping.
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Unread postby Specop_007 » Wed 27 Jul 2005, 22:44:31

DAMN!
When I picked up my muzzleloader I found it onsale. Something like 80 bucks out the door at Cabelas of all places.
If you shop hard and dont need a fancy name on the side you can find muzzleloaders very reasonably priced.
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Unread postby dmtu » Wed 27 Jul 2005, 23:15:29

This one is pretty though. Accuracy out to 100 should be pretty good to if I can ever get past the missfires. It's kind of neat because you see all the screw ups you make in the follow through. Personally I think the flinty will improve my centerfire performance. Took the 7mm SAUM out today and finally got it shooting excellent. as a matter of fact it makes my 22 - 250 look like junk. Had one three shot I could cover with a dime at 100 (range finder) If this oppressive heat ever lets up I'm gonna sight that one in at 300. The 22 - 250 has really been a thorn in my side.
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Unread postby Specop_007 » Thu 28 Jul 2005, 10:31:01

$this->bbcode_second_pass_quote('dmtu', 'T')his one is pretty though. Accuracy out to 100 should be pretty good to if I can ever get past the missfires. It's kind of neat because you see all the screw ups you make in the follow through. Personally I think the flinty will improve my centerfire performance. Took the 7mm SAUM out today and finally got it shooting excellent. as a matter of fact it makes my 22 - 250 look like junk. Had one three shot I could cover with a dime at 100 (range finder) If this oppressive heat ever lets up I'm gonna sight that one in at 300. The 22 - 250 has really been a thorn in my side.


Dont like the 22-250? I dont have one but there supposed to be damned accurate from what I hear.
Course, my belief is any gun can be damned accurate with the right amount of time. And mor eimportantly, the right amount of money.
Accuracy costs.
How accurate do you want to be? :-D
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Unread postby dmtu » Thu 28 Jul 2005, 12:22:04

dime @ 100 or better, I got the light varmit fluted stainless which has a 22" barrel and I thought it was me till I got the 7 mm all lined up. dog don't hunt. In a real good string of five you might cover it with a fifty cent piece. I'll burn the barrel out of the thing trying to optimize loads.
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Re: Flintlock advise? comere spec

Unread postby InverseBetaDecay » Thu 28 Jul 2005, 20:45:08

$this->bbcode_second_pass_quote('dmtu', ' ')I have this Hawken repro and I can only get the damned thing to fire occasionally. I get good spark off of the frizzen and a flash in the pan but no matter how fastidious I am about cleaning the flash hole it just doesn't seem to want to light the main charge.


I have a .50 cal Hawken replica (Thompson/Center). You got the hard part, finding a quality flint to get a spark. Maybe try a finer grade of powder for the pan. The finer size for .45 cal & below won't blow up a .50 or .54 cal Hawken even if you also use it for the main charge.

Some guys get frustrated & bore out the touch hole a bit. Wouldn't think you would want to do that on a well designed replica, but some Kentucky rifles seem to need it.

Don't stand to the right of someone who took that suggestion, though...
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Unread postby dmtu » Thu 28 Jul 2005, 20:54:33

Thanks IBD, I do think you're right. this is supposed to be a relatively good rifle so I'm leaning towards the issue being the pyrodex.
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Now you’re a million miles apart
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Unread postby Specop_007 » Thu 28 Jul 2005, 23:01:09

If its a quality rifle you may have some success going right to the manufacturer. Give them a call and explain your situation and see what they think.
I wouldnt do that till I had at least tried some different powder though. But its an option I wouldnt rule out either.
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